Tuesday, September 23 2008
I step off the train at 7am. I look down the platform to see thousands of people poring out of the train. I boarded the train in darkness and did not see how long it was. I can not see the end. It must be a half mile long. I follow the crowd down a stairwell to the left and begin my search for the exit. The station is enormous. There are more than twenty platforms and people are coming and going from every direction. The station has less English than I would have liked so I relied on my fellow passengers to find the end.
After a fifteen minute hike I step outside to catch my first glimpse of Beijing. Exiting the station is much like stepping onto the streets from Union Station. There are massive buildings all around and cabs line the street to take the new arrivals to their final destination. Unlike Chicago, the people waiting for the trains are camped out front. It seems that many people purchase train tickets the day of there desired train. It is impossible to determine when one will get a ticket; some may wait a full day. I do not think I have the patients for such a wait.
I walk a block or so from the station to catch a cab because I do not want to wait in line. I do not need to check in to my hotel until 6p so I have some time to kill. Tiananmen is my first stop. The cabbie drops me off around the corner from the square and I am immediately hounded to buy souvenirs. I am interested in the post cards a man is selling, I ask him how much. He replies, “20.” I laugh and turn to walk away. He asks, “How much you pay?” I reply, “Not 20.” “How much?” He asks again. I bust out my Chinese skills and explain to him that I am a teacher at Henan University and do not make a lot of money. I tell him I am not a tourist and will only pay Chinese prices. He gives me a hearty smile and laughs aloud. He tells me that my Chinese is very good and that I know China. “For you, 10 kui.” I laugh and say, “tai gui le! 5 kui.” He laughs again and tells me I’m a good bargainer but he can not sell them for less then 8 kui. That is 1 USD for ten postcards in a heavy tourist area and I felt it was a good deal. I give him the money and wish him a good day. He wishes me a good time in Beijing and quotes the Olympic song, “Beijing hui yi ni” “Beijing welcomes you.”
It is a beautiful day; the sun is shining and the sky is clear. I walk the sidewalk towards Tiananmen. I am overcome with excitement and my heart is beating heavily. I am about to enter one of the most historical sites in the world. Well, most historical for me because I have studied Chinese politics for the past two years. Tiananmen was witness to massive rallies and protests, celebration and mourning. Tiananmen, Gateway of Heavenly Peace, was initially built in 1417. It marks the entrance to the Forbidden City and represents the political heart of China. Visiting the square one finds Tiananmen Tower, Monument to the People's Heroes, the Great Hall of the People and the Mao Zedong Memorial Hall. Walking around the square I imagine what it must have been like to see Chairmen Mao standing on the steps of the Great Hall of the People to address a crowd of thousands waving their little red books and chanting “Wu huang, wan sui, wan sui, wan wan sui!” or to be witness to the Tank Man standing in defiance. So cool!
I cross the street to The Forbidden City. Steve suggested that I visit the parks outside of the city. I enter the National Garden, located east of the city. There are many rock gardens and wonderful flower sculptures scattered about the park. There are women dancing and singing to old men playing the er hu. The er hu is a traditional instrument I first heard about in my CLS program two summers ago. I would like to learn to play since I do not have a guitar here with me. Plus, I think it would be interesting.
After capturing a sweet photo of a butterfly in flight I make my way through the crowds to The Forbidden City. The city design is powerful in stature. It is certainly meant to leave a lasting impression on the visitor. The main squares and temples are impressive but are empty of any cultural relics. To find those, the visitor must get to the side streets and check out all the mini museums. Unfortunately, I primarily find replicas and souvenirs. However, I do find a sweet Mao Zedong shoulder bag! Awesome! The symbol of Mao is quite powerful and I find myself unable to resist his magic. Even knowing the history, I am falling in love. After careful reflection I have come to understand my new obsession. Mao represents a great paradigm in Chinese culture. There were many policy failures under his rule but he is a symbol of the greater good. An idea; the idea that someday this nation will achieve utopia.
“One World, One Dream” was the 2008 Beijing Olympics motto. A dream shared by a nation, to be shared by the world. To live in peace and act for mutual benefit is the aim of China’s five foreign policy principles. An icon such as Mao Zedong, in a warped way, has lead China towards prosperity. I wonder if a new icon will emerge to bring our world towards prosperity, towards utopia. I wonder if during my life time I will have a Martin Luther King, a Gandhi, of Mother Teresa. Will the 2008 Olympic motto become a reality or will the nations of the world destroy each other? Will we overcome the challenges of global warming? Will we never see past our religious or ideological differences to achieve mutual benefit and peace? I am happy to be living during a time that we may some day look back on and describe as the most defining moments in human history. I hope we survive.
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